Style Dilemma: Belting it Out

Sorry. Couldn't help it. I'm exhausted. And punchy. So bad puns, well...

Anywho, Miss Scarlet posted a comment on the last Style Dilemma:

On the belt topic, though, I have trouble wearing belts to work because I am constantly adjusting them. I wore one over an unbuttoned cardigan one day and spent most of my time keeping it looking ok.

My dear Scarlet, I feel your pain. I have the same problem. The "belt advice" is all over the style shows, blogs, and websites. "Make an hourglass figure with a belt." "Accentuate your fabulous curves with a belt."

Yeah, well, only if you can a) find one you adore, b) find one that fits properly at precisely that place on your torso that needs a belt, and c) find a piece of clothing that won't bunch, twist, or slide underneath said belt, causing you to figdet with your clothing all day. Which just. isn't. chic.

A couple of ways I've gotten around it in the past - though, to be perfectly honest, I pulled my adored orange belt out of the drawer the other day to put over an easy vneck sweater, which should've worked, but didn't. At all. It bunched in the wrong places, and just made me look, well, thicker.

Tip: When you buy your belt, buy it on the larger side (no shame about what size is on the label), so you have room to adjust. You can always have a cobbler add an extra hole if you magically shrink, but better safe than sorry. That way you can belt without belting too tightly.

Tip: Also when buying, buy while wearing at least one item you want to belt. Same deal. You can test it out.

Tip: Try belting over a longer structured jacket. I have one tweed jacket that has a sort of safari-like structure, and it (when it fits over my darned chest, which it doesn't right now), of all my clothes, does the best belted. There's just not much to improperly bunch.

Tip: Avoid belting blousy things like they show in all the fancy ads. Most of us aren't rail thin, and blousiness is rarely flattering on anyone but. It might not make us look wider, but it has this nasty tendency towards schoolmarm. And not the "sexy schoolmarm underneath" type that ads try to convince us we should attempt.

Tip: If you're going to attempt the belt, and are a belting newbie, try first with a skinny belt. It's a little more forgiving, and definitely less overwhelming than a Big Wide Belt. And buy patent. In any color. Goes with everything.

Hope that helps, Miss Scarlet - send us pics, of course!

Style Dilemma: After 18 long years, poof!

a butterfly!

Well, not really. But hyperchondriac posted her query yesterday, looking for help with interview duds after life as a perpetual student:

can you help me? I've been a student for almost 18 years. my uniform normally consists of jeans...and ever so occassionally nice dress pants. well, i need to start going for interviews soon. I've been told that pinstripes are out for a gal my age (i'm 27 1/2) because its too school-girl like? so i got this suit from calvin klein at filene's basement. the jacket is collarless and round, and the skirt is gorgeous. the problem i have now is that i don't know what to put underneath the jacket! any ideas? (the suit is solid black) and i'm not sure if they are part of the same thing, i just kinda figured, same color, same designer and the skirt! its fun but professional at the same time!

Hey, Hyper,

First, congratulations on finishing up your degree(s?). Lord knows I know the pain and suffering of schooooooooooool (8 years of undergrad, and still working on the MS).

Second, I hate to say it, but I think your well-meaning advisor slipped you a bit of off-center advice. Pinstripes can be stunning - and more than appropriate on any age - no schoolgirlness. A specific suit, maybe, might have leaned in that direction, but think grey on grey, or pale blue on navy (like the slacks I bought the other day), or even go classic. The trick, I think, on pinstripes is to have the colors be subtle enough to not look cheap. If there's too much of a contrast, and the fabric is less-than-the-best quality, then that "less than" shows up more.

Anywho. To your immediate question.

It's hard to tell with the suit on the hanger, but I'd say your first stop is a tailor. The jacket looks a bit boxy, so make sure it fits you at the waist. The skirt has a pretty drape, so make sure it's hemmed to a spot (not too high, not too low) that flatters your leg.

Second step is color. Color, color, color. With the caveat that I don't know the field in which you're interviewing, but I'd say push the envelope as far as you feel comfortable with color. On a colorless jacket like yours, I'd say go with a basic crewneck sweater - lightweight silk or cashmere. It can be short sleeved or sleeveless. Try something like Banana's cap-sleeve in a bright blue, or J. Crew's cashmere shell in a vibrant green. Avoid the silky tops that were probably hanging near the suits at Filene's - they scream "Government Worker" even outside the Beltway.

To make this flirty, but still interview-appropriate, try a sweet little scarf tied at the neck. If you're really adventurous, go for a bigger, looser scarf in a bow (see Ms. Spinach's version) - but it's absolutely imperative you have the jacket tailored to fit perfectly. Any extra roominess with a big bow will suck you back into the bad part of the 80s in no time.

And shoes. Here, again, I'd recommend color. Or, if you can't bring yourself to do that, go for a less-than-traditional shape (read: no plain ol' pumps): d'orsay, slingback with cutouts, cutouts, bows, embellishments. If you go as flirty as the Naughty Monkey (my new favorite line!) pair shown, then pick a black shell for under the jacket, and have the shoes speak on their own.

Lastly, if you're really, really ambitious, try belting the jacket. It may be too short, but pull out the belts in your closet that fit your waist - not your hips, where you've probably worn them in your jeans - and play around. It might feel strange at first, but go for it.

If you go belt, skip the scarf, and vice versa. The key here is to have one significant "wow" item, be it color, shape, or scarf.

Style Challenge: Bring It Out

This morning I pulled out a favorite, but barely worn, pair of flats. They're now happily cheering up my otherwise boring Friday Ensemble (too baggy khakis and a black turtleneck).

I challenge you - dare you - to dig through your closet this weekend (it's a long one, after all), and find at least one item of clothing, pair of shoes, or accessory that you love but never wear. Then build an outfit around it, and wear it next week.

Then report in.

Hint: colored shoes, accessories, pair really well with a monochromatic neutral ensemble - black, navy, grey. 'Cause I know that more than a few of you must have a favorite brightly colored piece you bought because you love it and can never figure out what to wear with it. Don't forget, you can always email or comment for advice (send along a snaphot for even better results!).