Style Dilemma: After 18 long years, poof!

a butterfly!

Well, not really. But hyperchondriac posted her query yesterday, looking for help with interview duds after life as a perpetual student:

can you help me? I've been a student for almost 18 years. my uniform normally consists of jeans...and ever so occassionally nice dress pants. well, i need to start going for interviews soon. I've been told that pinstripes are out for a gal my age (i'm 27 1/2) because its too school-girl like? so i got this suit from calvin klein at filene's basement. the jacket is collarless and round, and the skirt is gorgeous. the problem i have now is that i don't know what to put underneath the jacket! any ideas? (the suit is solid black) and i'm not sure if they are part of the same thing, i just kinda figured, same color, same designer and the skirt! its fun but professional at the same time!

Hey, Hyper,

First, congratulations on finishing up your degree(s?). Lord knows I know the pain and suffering of schooooooooooool (8 years of undergrad, and still working on the MS).

Second, I hate to say it, but I think your well-meaning advisor slipped you a bit of off-center advice. Pinstripes can be stunning - and more than appropriate on any age - no schoolgirlness. A specific suit, maybe, might have leaned in that direction, but think grey on grey, or pale blue on navy (like the slacks I bought the other day), or even go classic. The trick, I think, on pinstripes is to have the colors be subtle enough to not look cheap. If there's too much of a contrast, and the fabric is less-than-the-best quality, then that "less than" shows up more.

Anywho. To your immediate question.

It's hard to tell with the suit on the hanger, but I'd say your first stop is a tailor. The jacket looks a bit boxy, so make sure it fits you at the waist. The skirt has a pretty drape, so make sure it's hemmed to a spot (not too high, not too low) that flatters your leg.

Second step is color. Color, color, color. With the caveat that I don't know the field in which you're interviewing, but I'd say push the envelope as far as you feel comfortable with color. On a colorless jacket like yours, I'd say go with a basic crewneck sweater - lightweight silk or cashmere. It can be short sleeved or sleeveless. Try something like Banana's cap-sleeve in a bright blue, or J. Crew's cashmere shell in a vibrant green. Avoid the silky tops that were probably hanging near the suits at Filene's - they scream "Government Worker" even outside the Beltway.

To make this flirty, but still interview-appropriate, try a sweet little scarf tied at the neck. If you're really adventurous, go for a bigger, looser scarf in a bow (see Ms. Spinach's version) - but it's absolutely imperative you have the jacket tailored to fit perfectly. Any extra roominess with a big bow will suck you back into the bad part of the 80s in no time.

And shoes. Here, again, I'd recommend color. Or, if you can't bring yourself to do that, go for a less-than-traditional shape (read: no plain ol' pumps): d'orsay, slingback with cutouts, cutouts, bows, embellishments. If you go as flirty as the Naughty Monkey (my new favorite line!) pair shown, then pick a black shell for under the jacket, and have the shoes speak on their own.

Lastly, if you're really, really ambitious, try belting the jacket. It may be too short, but pull out the belts in your closet that fit your waist - not your hips, where you've probably worn them in your jeans - and play around. It might feel strange at first, but go for it.

If you go belt, skip the scarf, and vice versa. The key here is to have one significant "wow" item, be it color, shape, or scarf.

Reuse, Recycle, and Rejoice!

We all have those items in our closet that, for whatever reason, just sit there.

And then we pull them out.

And get compliments up the wazoo.

My orange Nine West Gian flats, bought at the end of last winter, when I was starting to not be able to wear heels as much, normally sit in my closet. Members of the Infintessimal Readership know I'm a proponent of Shots of Color as Neutral, but the flats just haven't been as practical as I'd have liked. A leeeetle bit of something about the fit, too.

This morning I threw them on with my Friday trouser jeans and brown merino/silk shell (with preppy grosgrain ribbon belt for a bit of cheer).

In the office elevator, "Great shoes," says the woman next to me, and coming out of a regular Friday meeting, "Love your shoes," says a colleague. "I was looking at them under the table the whole meeting."

They're coming out more often, methinks. This girl's way of saving the planet.

Style Dilemma Solved: Score! a Sexy Top

Carebear wrote in last week, looking for a top solution for what I thought was a rehearsal dinner. Well, I got it wrong - she was looking for the bachelorette party, but she did want multiple-event duty for the shirt. She hit the stores, and oila!, here's her results...

I went with the black faux wrap top from NY&Co. The fabulous DC Celine managed to find the perfect top - price and look! Because of the weather, I'm not sure if I'm going to pair it with jeans or black capris. Shoes are still up in the air but I'd love to add a burst of color. Thank you!!

You're welcome, Carebear...now, you just have to let us know what splash of color you go with - and what compliments you get on the top!

Style Dilemma: Color Questions

MotorCityGirl writes:

What do you think of this color combination? I'm going for the modern business/jacket and jeans look and I felt like the red jacket was a bit to conservative to pair with jeans without something unexpected to tie the two together. Jacket is shorter and untucked shirt peeks out below the the jacket.

Dear MotorCityGirl:

Like it. Absolutely. 1) I'm a fan of brights together. Especially, as you say, as something a little unexpected in the generally conservative business or academic worlds. 2) I'm a fan of color - whether in the same color family, like your pink and red combo, or whether in contrasting hues (think your 3rd grade art class color wheel lesson).

Another friend asked me a while back "how do you work with color? I'm always so afraid to mix and match." My answer to that? No fear. Ever. Anymore, there are no color rules, as long as you make your choices deliberately and wear them with confidence. But if you want rules, here are my quick & dirty Color Commands:

• Use your color wheel. Contrasting colors work - opposites attract. Purple and orange, for example, are just fine - good, even, if done with confidence. And there's a reason for red and green together.
• Use your neutrals...black, white, browns, navies, and even some unexpected ones, like greys. Wear an all-neutral ensemble, then spice it up with a single piece of color - an accessory like a big, huge bangle, or pick one piece, like your jacket or blouse.
• Or...Keep things in the same color family...hues. Wear your neutral, then pick your color pieces to be, say, all in the blue family. But make them very distinct hues, not too close. Too close will look like you've made a misdirected attempt at completely monochromatic.
• Confidence, confidence, confidence.

DC Celine's Recurring Style Dilemma

Woo Hoo! Success!

Finally, I found a(nother) pair of flats that work! My apologies to those of you who've heard this rant before. But I really needed to replace my nasty ol' but originally adorable black patent leather flats. H is ready to throw them out and have me go barefoot, they're so nasty.

I was walking down Wisconsin Avenue Thursday, and crossed the street, just in case there was something at Nine West. I'd been in a few weeks before, and each pair I tried on had something irritating about the fit. Cute, very cute, but just didn't fit right.

So on Thursday I walked past the window on Wisconsin, then did a double take. Brilliant green flats! What more could a girl ask for to pull her out of a Fashion Rut? The Winter Blues cured in one quick shot.

Then I spotted the orange version on the shelf above. This warrants a spin through the store. Noisy rolling briefcase in tow, I purused the store. There were definitely some options, but I didn't feel like trying on anything, so I put it in my head to come back this weekend.

Mickey couldn't make it today (her poor little one was puking), so Greek Goddess came to my rescue as Wing Woman. We dashed in to Georgetown, made a beeline for the Nine West store, and oila! there I was, trying on shoes.

I tried the black version of Lavetta first. I fell in love with the red version, but it's suede, and just not as practical. They were soft, soft leather, and very comfy, except for the teeny part right at the corner that rubbed. I'm a strong proponent of "if it's at all uncomfortable in the store, that will multiply 1000-fold when you get them home," so off came the incredibly cute driving loafers. (Both GG and I did the "oooh, they're so cute" as soon as they went on.)

Then I tried the orange version of Gain. Because while the green version caught my eye in the window, orange acts as a more versatile "neutral." In my hand, the leather wasn't as soft as Lavetta, but on, they were perfect. Comfy, great color, and as a bonus, the perfect counterpoint to the indigo top I had on today.

Out came the check card (no deficit spending for this fashionista), and in the bag they went.

That was easy.

And that success of course means I deserve a kleiner Brauner at Kafé Leopold.